We just returned 1/10 from Progreso/Cozumel. We visited Dzibilchaltun, used AutoProgreso. Our driver was Jose, and a GREAT guy. He didn't speak a lot of English, but he was well known by apparently everyone on the Peninsula, lol. He hooked us up with a great older Mayan guide at Dzibil, took us to a great cantina in Merida, and then dropped us right back at the pier at the end of the day. Yes, you can still climb the step pyramids, and swim in the Xlacah cenote. My son said the water was great. At Dzibil, you can get the 'short' tour, about 30 minutes, and then wander yourself, or the 'long' tour, an hour, and wander about after, depending on how much time you have. I wish we'd opted for the long tour...it was THAT good. Next January, when we return, we will cut out the Merida shopping, and plan to spend the whole day at Dzibilchaltun.